Last day of Adventuring, 20 May 2010 Thursday

Kenon dragged me out of bed early despite not having any appointments and fried the bacon noisily in the kitchen while I prepared coffee, still in my pajamas. I microwaved the cinnamon rolls and set up the table on the balcony outside for breakfast, stopping to look out to the marine blue sea. Alas we will not be getting into that beautiful blue world today.

We had decided to visit the green beach today, having never seen such a thing before. However, the nearest green sand beach was 40 miles away and located at the southern-most point of the island. Not wanting to waste any time, we quickly dressed and left the hostel. More comfortable now on the Vespa, we drove onto the Queen Kamehameha highway uphill from the hostel and proceeded south along the highway. Quickly passing by Keahou and reaching Keie Cafe by noon, we stopped to have lunch. I ate cold soba with shrimp salad, which tasted incredibly good while Kenon ate steak again.

After lunch, we decided to visit one of the famous Kona Joe Coffee Farm, which was owned by an orthopedic surgeon. He had decided to grow coffee in the arrangement of a vineyard trellis. The farm was peacefully quiet, and we encountered only two workers. There was a cafe located on the side of the hill, from where the entire trellis could be viewed. A plush sofa was placed beside the coffee counter and we relaxed there while sipping on a cup of medium roast. It was good, but not better than the normally cultivated Kona Coffee, despite being almost one third more expensive.

We then moved on past macadamia farms and organic vegetable farms, more small towns and after another 2 hours, Kenon stopped by a Koa wood mill. He was obsessed with the beauty of Koa wood, which were extremely rare and highly sought after. Koa wood had an amazing sheen that moved with different angulation. The shiny stripes were invisible when viewing the wood directly parallel or perpendicular to the surface but angulating it produces wavy stripes that were golden and moved according to the angle, thus giving an ephemeral appeal. We looked around the wood factory and chatted with the lady boss who were working on a piece of decoration for the wall. There were a few decorative items and furniture on display, and although we were not going to buy anything, the lady very happily showed us her works of art, explaining to us at great lengths the uniqueness of each piece.

Upon noticing that we were on the Vespa, she advised us not to head to the southern green beach as it was still very far away and it had gotten late in the afternoon. The road ahead also twisted more and was rather dangerous for our small bike. She went on to show us a small plate full of green sand, which was actually olivine crystal, mixed in with volcanic glass. It shone a briliant green amongst the black lava, and was otherwise known as "evening emerald". It was beautiful.

We decided to go to a nearer beach instead. The Place of Refuge was also very famous for its pristine and clear waters, another favourite snorkelling spot for the locals as well as one of the popular bays for the wild spinner dolphins.We turned off the hill and headed down the exit for the Place of Refuge after an hour's ride backtracking. The Place of Refuge was actually an extended flat land with 3 separate beaches and a natural springwater pond in the middle. In ancient times, the Hawaiians who had committed a crime were temporarily pardoned if they reached this cove in time. Women and children of warriors also gathered here to weather out any wars on their land.

It was truly a magnificient and resourceful cove. We first visited the black lava beach, with extended to the sea for many irregular miles. We had to hike across uneven black volcanic rock to reach the sea. There were many tidal pools that were rather deep and housed different coloured corals. The water was so still and clear that we could see the fishes and corals clearly, as though dry snorkelling. We also saw small crabs scutter into caves amongst the rocks when they were exposed by the outgoing tide. It was really tempting to strip and jump inside the tidal pool, but we both could not imagine riding wet on the Vespa and managed to refrain.

After admiring the tidal pools we rode the bike onto a deserted area cleared by recent lava flow, now cooled and solid. A tree that was in the path of the lava had fallen over the side of the solid lava, creating an interesting spectacle, a dead and brown twisted trunk lying perpendicular to young green shoots beside it. It was a beautiful and haunting area, and no one else was around. We walked around and explored under trees and over dead trunks, but found nothing extraordinary.

We then headed back to the village. Walking past the freshwater pond, we walked onto a narrow pebbled path leading to an ancient wooden hut with a thatched roof. Very tall wood carvings of man-like beings were displayed in its yard. Just in front of the house was another part of the bay, with waters like green crystal fringed by black rocks. The rocky bay smoothed into a gray sand beach, with very still waters and hardly any waves. The water was unmoving over smooth pebbles. This was a Honu sanctuary. Even though there were not any turtles resting there at that time, there was a sacred feel to that beach.

Separated by a cluster of coconut trees was an active pier where canoes were launched. Dolphins breached the water and spun in a wonderful array of acrobatics just further off the bay in deeper waters, further impressing us with wonder. Leaving with an unwilling heart and a wrenched feeling in our soul, we rode the bike and attempted to race back before dark.

Riding uphill, we reached the highway again, as the darkening skies suddenly poured icy cold rain. We had to stop the bike and hide under a shop which had already closed. Worried that the rain might not stop, we pushed on just as it let off a little. Getting slightly wet, we were both chilled in our Hawaiian shirts and shorts. As the rain got heavier again, we had no choice but to stop again. Spying a neat little cafe which served cowboy beans and traditional smoked ribs, we stop for dinner. Despite the pouring rain, the patrons of the little roadside restaurant were laughing and enjoying a live performance by a local Hawaiian band.

Although now wet and cold, we were charmed and were able to enjoy our little roadside fare. The band called out as the orange sun was setting over a sky painted brilliantly pink and orange, just like the ideal colours of a padparascha. Hawaii is truly a gem of a place, with infinite cheerfulness in the hearts of its residents, and countless admirable beauties scattered all over the land, present in every moment. There is a magic here, palpable by discerning hearts, and I feel it could be none other than the spirit of Aloha.

After the sun set, the rain stopped, and we made our way back. As we prepared to brave the chilly wind and mounted our wet bike, a little girl of about 4 years old noted our predicament, and offered me her warm woolen shawl. I was truly touched by that compassionate gesture and I will not forget that warmth which enshrouded me and protected me from the cold that day, despite not taking the shawl after all.

Last Wet day, 19 May 2010 Wednesday

It was our last dive of the trip, and although we still did not manage to see any of the large animals like eagle spotted rays or whale sharks or tiger sharks, our last dive was one of the best. This was because the sun was shining brightly overhead that day and vog was kept close to the island's volcanic peak. We returned to Golden Arches.The visibility was so good that sunlight pierced right down to the 18 metre depths and endowed everything with brilliant color and sparkles.

Especially beautiful is the view of fishes under rock arches swimming peacefully undisturbed as I rested within the caves. As the air bubbles were trapped under the roof of the cave, the fishes were not alarmed and did not scatter away, congregating in large groups and displaying their beautiful colours outside the cave. At one cave entrance, another diver and I hovered just outside and motionless. The whole school of yellow-finned striped wrasses crossed one end of the arch to the other, illuminated as a golden bridge across the entrance of the cave. It was a small swim through, and behind the golden bridge were beautiful coral formations and clear blue water beyond. It was a magical moment, but the camera was with Kenon. As that diver buoyed up slightly from his crouch and swam through the cave, the golden bridge broke up in two, as the two groups of yellow fishes swam to each side of the archway, out of the way. That transient beautiful moment, is gone.

 

Moving on, Kenon happily snapping away with the camera now in his grasp, he even took two pictures of me. And later kept complaining that all that time I held the camera, I did not think to take even one photograph of him [now why would I when all the other fishes were so much more photogenic!].

Just at those critical moments when wonderful things appear, the camera's battery died. We had found a flatfish. The fish was flat and completely camouflaged against a rock, blending into the rock's colours. Somehow, it decided to swim away and as it undulating across the water, it appeared that the rock's surface separated and floated away. Following it, we noted two eyes on one of its sides and a bright hue of purple fin sticking up vertically while it swam horizontally away.

Soon after, we surfaced and had to bid sad goodbye's to the wonderful crew on Big Island Divers. They were very patient and attentive and willingly helped us for all our special needs throughout the two weeks. It also made the fact that our holiday was soon coming to an end all the more poignant. We left the harbour with a heavy heart, but quickly cheered up at the prospect of bringing the Vespa out again.

This time, being more confident, we drove to the end of Ali'i Drive, onto Ali'i Highway and almost onto Ali'i Hill. However, we were blockaded by traffic police when we reached the end of Ali'i highway. With hearts pounding in our throats and parched lips, the policeman smiled at us as he told us that we could not continue onto the Ali'i Hill on a Vespa, and even directed us down another path to visit an interesting beach further down.


Nodding furiously, we proceeded down the path to a rocky black beach. "You know, even with the best lawyers, we will never win the case. Knowing full well that we do not have any driving license..." I whispered into Kenon's ear. I had to admit, we were reckless and we did not care, we laughed instead to keep our fear at bay. On the way down to the beach, we passed by grassland reminiscent of the Savannah plains. Here the grass grew straight and very tall, but unlike the lalang in Singapore, as the grass here was very dry and browned. Here and there, a small twisted tree grew with a flat canopy of yellow-brown leaves. The sunset had painted the whole area a golden reddish hue.

Beyond the grassland, we stopped to explore the empty beach. It was not really a beach, just a lava cliff that ended abruptly with the surf breaking upon treacherous rocks. The water was very blue and clear, but we could not reach the sea. We found white coral rocks littered amongst the black rocks and decided to write our initials on a rock according to the Hawaiian tradition. We then moved on, after leaving our mark on the black beach.
 
Bypassing Keahou, our furthest reach the day before, we drove onto the Kuakini Highway. Cars zipped by, and we stuck to the bicycle lane throughout the drive. Stopping at one of the small stopover town along the highway, we met a Guitar-maker and a wood-craftsman who were both very genial and interesting. Kenon lingered in the guitar shop and explored the Ukulele and different types of guitars on display and pieces of different woods. At the wood-craftsman's shop, we stayed even longer, and beyond the closing time of the shop.

The craftsman was a retired Navy Captain who used to dive for the Navy. He was tanned, with a high nose and sparkling blue eyes. A shock of white hair on his head and a large amount of white beard, he looks like a typical ship captain. He told us amazing experiences diving all over the world. He goes on frequent holidays to different dive destinations still, remaining active despite his age. It was truly inspiring. He also continued to make little wooden sailing ships and boxes, and I bought a pair of gold dolphin-shaped earrings from him.

 

Under the captain's direction, we had dinner at the best restaurant in Kona, at Keie cafe. It was a short distance away from the captain's shop and was owned by 2 Brazilian chefs. They served very good fusion food and we enjoyed ourselves thoroughly. By the time we were done, the sun had long set and it was very dark.

I was very apprehensive as Kenon proceeded to drive me back to town in the dark. It was very cold and my buttocks ached rather badly after sitting on the bike for the 2hour ride back. We were moving very slowly at 30mph [which was slower than a bicycle], but I kept emphasizing that it was always better to be delayed than to be dead, and will shout very loudly at Kenon if his speedometer increased to beyond 55mph [which happens whenever we go downhill].

We got lost once and as the road became deserted and very dark, I insisted on going back. Based on experience, it was always a bad idea to continue once the overhead stars could be seen clearly against the black sky and black silent surrounding. That would mean that we had taken the wrong turn into an unpopular direction.

Finally we made it back to Kailua, and went to our favourite place, Walmart. In the parking lot, we spied another policeman and had to make a detour to another part of the parking lot to escape. We got down and Kenon decided to buy strawberries, cinnamon rolls and bacon for our next day's breakfast. Very exhausted, we still stayed up until midnight to talk to the German couple who were very excitable and extremely friendly and kept us chatting happily despite our tiredness.